Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Hoist Completed And Tested Out

So the first job I did this morning was make up, and weld, the mast to boom connection bracket. Here it is welded to the top of the mast.

Next I cut the main boom section using 2 1/2" X 3/16" tubing, 48" long. I cut a 3" length of the same material and drilled it 3/4", and welded it 1" from the end of the main boom. This will connect to the bracket at the top of the mast.

Next I drilled four 5/8" holes spaced 10" apart in the main boom. I then temporarily installed the main boom on the mast to determine the bracket position for the top jack connection. Next I made up and welded the bracket to the boom, seen here below the second hole on the boom. The boom extension is 2" X 3/16" square tubing. I drilled 2 - 5/8" holes 3" from the ends, one will register with the four different main boom holes to change the boom length. The other will take a bolt to lock the chain and hook assembly. One of the links in the hook assembly passes through a slot cut in the bottom to engage the bolt. OK we are ready to assemble.

Here is the hoist fully assembled. I dug out a set of log tongs I had, and rolled it outside for some pictures and to test it out.

I loaded two of the larger logs in the back of my truck, back at the end of May, where they have been ever since. I figured this would be an acceptable test. The first is a little less than 8', around 200 lbs. Popular log. With the boom in the third position, a little over 6', it reached right in the back and pulled it out.

Their's one more little item to do and that is weld a set of handle bars on the back of the mast for turning the hoist. As it was, it turned easily, with a light push on the boom and pull on the mast. Here ready to drop the log on the carriage, if their was one, the frame deck will have to do.

Here I went back and got the second log. This one is a little less than 7', Spruce and a little over 150 lbs.

OK that was easy, how does it handle both logs. I changed out the log tongs for a strap, and raised both logs for a total of over 350 lbs. No problem, lifted easy and everything remained stable. The jacks give good support without any side to side movement of the frame. The only wood I have on my property that might come in over 400 lbs. in a 8' log, is Birch, and I can see this handling much more than that. It should be noted that when the boom is extended it will handle less weight, retracted much more. Fully extended I would limit myself to around 4 to 500 lbs., fully retracted your probably good up to 3 tons, on the boom and mast, however the hoist receiver and trailer are not designed for that kind of weight.

Here ready to drop both logs back into the truck. Took a little more effort to turn with both logs , but not bad, the handlebars will fix that ha, ha.

Here the hoist is folded up in it's storage position. There are 3 mating pairs of holes in the flanges, so the hoist can be locked in 3 positions with a pin and retainer.

So next is the carriage, but its break time for me again, to do some clean up of the shops and take a breather.


Monday, July 16, 2018

Started On The Sawmill Hoist

So I spent the morning finishing up the welding on the hoist receiver. Managed to flip the trailer on both sides to do the underside welds, and turn the vertical welds into flat welds, My skill level and equipment don't do well with vertical welds, ha, ha.

Here's the receiver complete, doesn't look pretty but it's solid.

So after lunch we made a start on the hoist. I started by deciding on a angle for the mast, measured to length and cut the angles on my chop saw. Set up the receiver insert on a vise and welded the mast to the flange. The mast is 3" X 3/16" square tubing. It's overkill but I wanted a large weld surface at the flange, since there will be no strengthening struts. I'll go smaller, 2 1/2", for the boom, with a 2" extension.

Here is a close up of the bottom bracket for the long stroke jack that will power the hoist. The jack is rated 8 ton, which is overkill again, but it was on sale and the regular price of a 4 ton was quite a bit more.

The next two pictures are front and back views of the mast with jack in place, just waiting for me to install the boom.

Not that fast though, there are a couple of brackets I have to make first and some heavy drilling to do. Hopefully get it done tomorrow.

Here's an idea I will be adding to my to-do list. I have two trailers an 8' and a 12'. Loading and unloading heavy equipment is always a problem, if there's no hoist or loading equipment around. Since I have this removable hoist now, it would be simple enough to beef up my trailer A frames, and install similar receivers to accept the the hoist when needed.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

Hoist Mounting Socket

So picking up where I left off, last post. I cut the hoist mounting socket pipe lengths to 10" lengths. I want the hoist height comfortable to operate, but not so high that I overload the socket with leverage pressure and introduce height capacity I will never need. I beveled the end of the inside pipe and welded the turned insert in the end, nice tight fit.

Here both the inside pipe and outside pipe are done, ready to install. The 1/2" machine bolt will not be accessible once the hoist is welded in place, so I welded the head permanently to the removable mount.

Metal cutting band saws are nice but they can be overrated. They are great for what they are designed for, crosscutting, but for odd shaped work, diagonals, or circular work, they fall short. I often abuse my 4 X 6 in the vertical position but the 4" throat makes it very limited. Where precise measurements are not top priority, the lowly grinder is the best tool in your shop. With a good selection of disc thicknesses all manner of work can be done, and with guide jigs even precise cuts can be accomplished. For straight cut offs, for welding use, I prefer the cut off disc, its faster than the band saw and with practice even free hand cuts can be quite satisfactory. The cut below was done free hand in half the time the 4 X 6 would have taken, if the throat was deep enough, which it isn't.

Here the strengthening ribs are all tacked in place, ready to do the weld-up. 

Here I have inserted the hoist base into the receiver. The insert spins easily, without to much play, I don't imagine it will spin as easily with a 500 lb. log hanging from the hoist, ha ha.

So hopefully finish all the welding tomorrow morning, and get started on the actual hoist.

Hoist Rotating Socket Flanges Prepared

So the hoist will rotate and be easily removable, to move logs onto the carriage and for storage when not in use. The bottom of the hoist will be welded 2 1/2" pipe, It will slide into a 3" pipe, welded to the A frame. The rotating mating surfaces will be 2 nice chrome steel flanges I have had tucked away for years waiting for a project. One can be used as is, the other had to have the center cut out, it will be welded to the top of the 3" pipe and the 2 1/2" will pass through it.

Fortunately the largest hole saw I had was the right size to cut the center out of the one flange. None of my drill presses has the power to do this job, this is where my mill/drill comes in handy.

The two flanges mated together for rotation of the hoist.

I took the center cut out and turned a socket to fit into the end of the 2 1/2" pipe. This should result in a very solid connection when welded.

All the parts required for rotation and solid socket installation of the hoist.

So hopefully I can prepare the pipe, and strengthening ribs, for the hoist base tomorrow, and get it assembled.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Beefing Up The A Frame

So still not up to par this morning, but got an early start anyway. As mentioned before I wanted to strengthen the A frame to accept the small hoist, by adding stiffening ribs. In the first picture are the ribs and the hoist base plate, cut, and bent.

Looks like this bug was still having it's effects. My brain was off in never never land when I ground the bending slot on the wrong side of the bottom triangular piece.

Below, not a problem I had intended to weld over the slots anyway.

Wood moves when it drys, and metal moves when you weld it. Before clamping up the ribs and base plate, I retracted the A frame jack and then placed a 200 lb. piece of rail on the front to weigh it down I then raised the two front frame jacks and leveled the frame. Only then did I place the ribs and base plate and clamped them tightly in place. Ready to weld. This is done to compensate for the inevitable up tilt to the A frame when the welding is done.

After the welding was done, I removed the weight and cleaned up the welds.

There are a few more welds to do when I tilt the trailer on its sides, but otherwise I am ready to start on the hoist. It will be placed in the center of the base plate where I placed the white dot.

Maybe there is something to be said about the old saying that you have to sweat out a bug. I feel better after a good sweat, than I did when I started. If the energy is there, I'll get started on the hoist this evening after it cools down a bit.

Friday, July 13, 2018

When It Hits The Fan, It Hits The Fan

Sorry no update today, I picked up a nasty bug a couple of days ago and it's been sweats and chills for two days. I think I am on the mend but it didn't help that in the middle of all this heat and humidity, smoke rolled in yesterday morning and its even worse this morning.

There are many fires burning in the North but the largest is 30,000 acres in Lady Evelyn-Smooth Water Park near Temagami. The park is one of the few old growth forests left in Ontario. The preservationists won the fight against the loggers a few years ago, but it looks like fire is going to get some of it. The park is 100 miles south but when the wind changed it blew the smoke all the way up here. Nasty.

That haze you see in the picture is not haze, its smoke. 

So I did drag myself into the shop yesterday, but it was all I could do to get it cleaned up ready for the next stage. 10 lbs of weld rod ends, slag, and grinding dust off the floor and at least it looks more inviting.

I think I'm on the mend now, hopefully get back in the shop tomorrow.

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Theirs Gold In Them There Hills

So I made a trip into Kirkland Lake to visit my now favorite, (free), steel supplier. Got a nice selection of sizes and thicknesses, even some circular cut outs that should come in handy.

Since I have been doing a tour of Northern Ontario road side attractions I figured I better not leave Kirkland Lake out. So I stopped at The Miners Memorial and got some pictures. Kirkland Lake came into being when gold was discovered in 1910-1911. It turned out to be a huge discovery with 27 local active mines in a short period of time. The ore bodies were very rich but the geology was murderous, the grain of the rock slanted from the vertical and deeply fractured. I have heard stories from miners, how a man could scale for hours after a blast and never get all the loose down. The result was many wealthy owners and many dozens of dead miners over the years. Heres the memorial wall.

No welded steel animal sculpture here. This is a representative art piece of the mining methods of the past, that made Kirkland Lake, and many other mining communities across the north. The bronze statuary is beautifully done, the structure is Canadian Shield granite, and the narrow gauge rail equipment, are actual artifacts from the mining methods of the not to distant past.

Here's another view of this nicely done art piece.

Below is a picture of the Sir Harry Oakes Manor, it's a museum now, but it has had a long and storied past. Harry Oakes was an American born British-Canadian. After looking for his pot of gold around the world, he landed in Kirkland Lake in 1911. In 1912 he discovered the Lake Shore mine, the veins were very rich, and it soon became the second largest gold mine in the Americas, and the most productive in the Western Hemisphere.

When he built the above manor, the story goes he had his miners urinate in buckets at the end of their shifts, so the ammonia could turn the copper roof that nice green. He moved to the Bahamas after he made his millions to, wouldn't you know it, avoid paying taxes, on the many millions that dead miners put in his pockets. He was murdered there mysteriously at the age of 68. Many books and movies have been produced on his life and death.

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Have Wheels Will Travel

So we started early today, and once I got going I couldn't have stopped if I had wanted to. Getting it mobile, without making it hard to use, is something few home builds have incorporated.

So the first job was to make the front axle hangers. I started of by cutting two rectangles 2 1/2" X 10" X 1/4" from some scrap pieces I had in stock. I first drilled them out using a similar method as that used to drill the hoist hangers in a previous post.

Next I scored the bend lines with my grinder and started to bend the tough steel to shape. First with a vise and a 3 lb hammer and finished of with a large piece of RR rail and a 10 lb hammer. In the picture all done.

To weld them in place first measure 3 times before you strike an arc (ha, ha). Generally accepted practice for trailers is 60 % of length from front and 40 % from the back, for axle placement. To track properly measure from the front in case your side lengths are even a little different. In this case the axle measurement is actually to the right of the cross channel, and the bracket placement is measured from there.

Here the brackets are welded in place, and the axle assembly is bolted to the brackets, using the same bolts and hardware from the Cavalier.

Here is the trailing arm. This is where the rear shocks were connected on the Cavalier. I considered reusing them but they would have been to high, and in the way. I didn't like the idea of a metal to metal connection here so I dug out 4, 1/2" thick 2 1/2" square hard rubber disks, that were center drilled. I used two on each side to cushion the connection between the 2" X 2" tubing welded to the frame and the trailing arm on the axle assembly. I put a good squeeze on the rubber discs with washers and self locking nuts.

So flipped the trailer over with my mobile shop hoist. Here is a picture of how the whole assembly looks. Excuse the dark picture, expand it helps.

So we installed the A frame jack, and we are ready to roll.

Did you say "sawmill" no,no, this is my double motorcycle and snowmobile trailer, just needs floor boards, a railing, and tie down rings, lol, (bear with me, I had to say that ha,ha).

As you can see it's quite low to the ground. My height adjustable tow hitch is on my other truck. Took it out to the highway and back for a good run. Tows easy, even when goosing it, theirs no swaying, it holds straight and true. From what I could tell in my mirrors it was always well centered down the centerline. Checked the tire tracks (what little tread their is) in softer material, track and tread were clearly defined, indicating good tracking. I'm sure it's not perfect, but probably as close as you can get a home built.

Here I disconnected from the truck and put a level on the carriage track. Dropped the leveling jacks and leveled it up.

So I have got to catch up on some domestic chores. Hopefully get back at it Thursday.

Monday, July 9, 2018

Leveling Jacks Installed

So still had some energy after supper, so put in another hr. in the shop. With the frame bottom still facing up figured I should install the leveling jacks. Front and back are both inset 1' from the ends. Excuse the dark image here.

In stored position.

Here I have the two front jacks rotated and locked in position for leveling.

Towing A Frame Installed

So we got the towing A frame installed this morning. It is important here to pay close attention to measurements, (measure twice cut once applies). You want the ball connection to be well centered, this combined with proper axle mounting will give good tracking in towing mode.

Here is the underside complete. Side struts are 2" X 2" X 3/16" angle and the center strut is 2" X 2" X 3/16" square tubing.

The rear connection of the center strut.

The underside of the towing A frame 2" ball accessory. 

Here flipped over to show the top side.

There will be additional stiffening ribs installed when the crane work is done.

So moving along, hopefully we will get the Cavalier rear axle assembly and wheels installed tomorrow. We will see if we can take it out for a run to check tracking.