Showing posts with label Sawmill Build. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sawmill Build. Show all posts

Sunday, July 15, 2018

Hoist Rotating Socket Flanges Prepared

So the hoist will rotate and be easily removable, to move logs onto the carriage and for storage when not in use. The bottom of the hoist will be welded 2 1/2" pipe, It will slide into a 3" pipe, welded to the A frame. The rotating mating surfaces will be 2 nice chrome steel flanges I have had tucked away for years waiting for a project. One can be used as is, the other had to have the center cut out, it will be welded to the top of the 3" pipe and the 2 1/2" will pass through it.

Fortunately the largest hole saw I had was the right size to cut the center out of the one flange. None of my drill presses has the power to do this job, this is where my mill/drill comes in handy.

The two flanges mated together for rotation of the hoist.

I took the center cut out and turned a socket to fit into the end of the 2 1/2" pipe. This should result in a very solid connection when welded.

All the parts required for rotation and solid socket installation of the hoist.

So hopefully I can prepare the pipe, and strengthening ribs, for the hoist base tomorrow, and get it assembled.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Beefing Up The A Frame

So still not up to par this morning, but got an early start anyway. As mentioned before I wanted to strengthen the A frame to accept the small hoist, by adding stiffening ribs. In the first picture are the ribs and the hoist base plate, cut, and bent.

Looks like this bug was still having it's effects. My brain was off in never never land when I ground the bending slot on the wrong side of the bottom triangular piece.

Below, not a problem I had intended to weld over the slots anyway.

Wood moves when it drys, and metal moves when you weld it. Before clamping up the ribs and base plate, I retracted the A frame jack and then placed a 200 lb. piece of rail on the front to weigh it down I then raised the two front frame jacks and leveled the frame. Only then did I place the ribs and base plate and clamped them tightly in place. Ready to weld. This is done to compensate for the inevitable up tilt to the A frame when the welding is done.

After the welding was done, I removed the weight and cleaned up the welds.

There are a few more welds to do when I tilt the trailer on its sides, but otherwise I am ready to start on the hoist. It will be placed in the center of the base plate where I placed the white dot.

Maybe there is something to be said about the old saying that you have to sweat out a bug. I feel better after a good sweat, than I did when I started. If the energy is there, I'll get started on the hoist this evening after it cools down a bit.

Friday, July 13, 2018

When It Hits The Fan, It Hits The Fan

Sorry no update today, I picked up a nasty bug a couple of days ago and it's been sweats and chills for two days. I think I am on the mend but it didn't help that in the middle of all this heat and humidity, smoke rolled in yesterday morning and its even worse this morning.

There are many fires burning in the North but the largest is 30,000 acres in Lady Evelyn-Smooth Water Park near Temagami. The park is one of the few old growth forests left in Ontario. The preservationists won the fight against the loggers a few years ago, but it looks like fire is going to get some of it. The park is 100 miles south but when the wind changed it blew the smoke all the way up here. Nasty.

That haze you see in the picture is not haze, its smoke. 

So I did drag myself into the shop yesterday, but it was all I could do to get it cleaned up ready for the next stage. 10 lbs of weld rod ends, slag, and grinding dust off the floor and at least it looks more inviting.

I think I'm on the mend now, hopefully get back in the shop tomorrow.

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Have Wheels Will Travel

So we started early today, and once I got going I couldn't have stopped if I had wanted to. Getting it mobile, without making it hard to use, is something few home builds have incorporated.

So the first job was to make the front axle hangers. I started of by cutting two rectangles 2 1/2" X 10" X 1/4" from some scrap pieces I had in stock. I first drilled them out using a similar method as that used to drill the hoist hangers in a previous post.

Next I scored the bend lines with my grinder and started to bend the tough steel to shape. First with a vise and a 3 lb hammer and finished of with a large piece of RR rail and a 10 lb hammer. In the picture all done.

To weld them in place first measure 3 times before you strike an arc (ha, ha). Generally accepted practice for trailers is 60 % of length from front and 40 % from the back, for axle placement. To track properly measure from the front in case your side lengths are even a little different. In this case the axle measurement is actually to the right of the cross channel, and the bracket placement is measured from there.

Here the brackets are welded in place, and the axle assembly is bolted to the brackets, using the same bolts and hardware from the Cavalier.

Here is the trailing arm. This is where the rear shocks were connected on the Cavalier. I considered reusing them but they would have been to high, and in the way. I didn't like the idea of a metal to metal connection here so I dug out 4, 1/2" thick 2 1/2" square hard rubber disks, that were center drilled. I used two on each side to cushion the connection between the 2" X 2" tubing welded to the frame and the trailing arm on the axle assembly. I put a good squeeze on the rubber discs with washers and self locking nuts.

So flipped the trailer over with my mobile shop hoist. Here is a picture of how the whole assembly looks. Excuse the dark picture, expand it helps.

So we installed the A frame jack, and we are ready to roll.

Did you say "sawmill" no,no, this is my double motorcycle and snowmobile trailer, just needs floor boards, a railing, and tie down rings, lol, (bear with me, I had to say that ha,ha).

As you can see it's quite low to the ground. My height adjustable tow hitch is on my other truck. Took it out to the highway and back for a good run. Tows easy, even when goosing it, theirs no swaying, it holds straight and true. From what I could tell in my mirrors it was always well centered down the centerline. Checked the tire tracks (what little tread their is) in softer material, track and tread were clearly defined, indicating good tracking. I'm sure it's not perfect, but probably as close as you can get a home built.

Here I disconnected from the truck and put a level on the carriage track. Dropped the leveling jacks and leveled it up.

So I have got to catch up on some domestic chores. Hopefully get back at it Thursday.

Monday, July 9, 2018

Leveling Jacks Installed

So still had some energy after supper, so put in another hr. in the shop. With the frame bottom still facing up figured I should install the leveling jacks. Front and back are both inset 1' from the ends. Excuse the dark image here.

In stored position.

Here I have the two front jacks rotated and locked in position for leveling.

Towing A Frame Installed

So we got the towing A frame installed this morning. It is important here to pay close attention to measurements, (measure twice cut once applies). You want the ball connection to be well centered, this combined with proper axle mounting will give good tracking in towing mode.

Here is the underside complete. Side struts are 2" X 2" X 3/16" angle and the center strut is 2" X 2" X 3/16" square tubing.

The rear connection of the center strut.

The underside of the towing A frame 2" ball accessory. 

Here flipped over to show the top side.

There will be additional stiffening ribs installed when the crane work is done.

So moving along, hopefully we will get the Cavalier rear axle assembly and wheels installed tomorrow. We will see if we can take it out for a run to check tracking.

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Carriage Track Installed

So I installed the carriage track this morning while it was still cool. The heat has returned so staying inside with some ice cold rum and cokes this afternoon, was more fun than the hot shop.

The first picture is the tracks, lined up and clamped to the top of the frame. The top of the frame channel is heavy enough to have been used as the track, but adding the angle adds greater strength and stiffness, if the carriage jumps the track the side angle will direct the carriage back on the track, and lastly it is safer, preventing wandering hands or clothing from getting pulled under the wheels. The more clamps the better, I find for thinner clamping without much depth vise grips work better than C clamps, more precise and easier to install.

Welding and grinding all done , trying out the wheels on the track. Many home built mills use a piece of angle with the 90* backside V facing up, a V cut in the saw arch wheels rides the back of the angle track. This works well and helps to keep sawdust out from under the wheels, jumping the track with those top heavy looking arches, could be disastrous though. In my design the saw arch does not travel, so sawdust is produced at just one point, as opposed to the full length of the mill, so directing and collecting of saw dust should be much easier.

The wheels I am proposing for my mill. They have large heavy bearings, for hoist use, and roll smoothly on the track. When welding the track, it is important not to run full length welds for attaching the track. On the outside surface I used 1" tacks welds, spaced 1' apart, with heavier 1 1/2" welds on the ends. I spaced them out even further apart on the inside. All the clamps stayed on until all welding was complete.

To be continued. Soon I hope, ha, ha. Cheers.

Friday, July 6, 2018

Sawmill Main Frame Welded

So I got back in the shop this afternoon and welded up the main frame. The first picture is the underside.

In the second picture it is flipped over to show the top side. Ready to have the carriage track installed.

So tomorrow hopefully install the track and get started on the towing A frame.

Squaring Up The Frame

So sure enough the nasty temps. broke over night, a nice cool 23*C today. First job this morning was to do the joints I didn't do yesterday. I marked the four corners for miter joints and using a slitting disc and my grinder cut the miters free hand. These corners will take heavy welds so they don't have to be perfect just close. I am using 4" X 1/4" channel for the main frame.

Getting this main frame square and level is important, everything else rides or is attached to it. I am often surprised but my unfinished floor is quite level. The upper right hand corner is low by 1/16", a couple of cut off discs for shims, one at the end and one in the middle leveled it right up.

 I used two framing squares to square up the corners.

OK so I am ready to start welding. I'll post later today again, if I get it all welded up.

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

Sawmill Main Frame Cut Out

God it was hot today. I managed to drag myself out of the cool house into the shop and got the main frame all cut out, this afternoon. I was a little leery about using my abrasive chop saw in this heat, but with a fresh blade it breezed through all the cuts. I didn't dare strike an arc and do any welding, in this heat I was afraid I might spontaneously combust, ha ha. This heat is supposed to break tomorrow evening, so I'll do more cutting, and prepare some joints for welding on Friday.

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

A Woodworkers Sawmill Build

So it seems I have talked myself into committing to the sawmill build this summer. This is going to be a long project, hopefully we can saw some boards before the snow flies again. If you have followed any of my builds you will know I usually start of with a rough drawing to lay out the basic dimensions and expectations and then work from there, according to what I have available or can fabricate myself. Here is my rough concept drawing.

As you can see this is different from most of what is out there. Different variations of this idea have rolled around in my head for many years. I don't have the trees to go into business producing large amounts of construction length lumber, and now that my house and shops are built, I don't have the need for it either. My sawmill dream has always been to be able to cut a tree down, saw it into good quality boards, and build a nice piece of furniture with it, (the whole process, forest to bookcase).

For a woodworker the largest pieces he is likely to build are bookcases, or bed frames. All under 8', for that reason I sized the mill for a maximum log length of 8'6". This will still allow you to cut stud length lumber if needed.

The most distinct difference in this mill is that the saw arch is stationary, the log carriage moves the log through the stationary saw arch. In my opinion a more accurate cut should be produced, for two reasons, the blade arch is not moving over a less than perfect surface, and the carriage, which is moving, has a larger stance than a traveling arch, which helps to smooth out the irregularities in the track.

The first question here might be "How are you going to saw 8'6'' logs on a 6'2" carriage?". The answer is the carriage wheels are inset 1' from the ends of the carriage. This allow's the carriage to overhang the frame 1' at both ends, allowing 8'6" of travel past the blade.

Blade elevation and carriage travel will both be powered by ATV 1500 lb. winches, this may change if things don't work out.

Engine clutches for anything larger than 12 or 13 HP are very expensive, competing with the price of the engine itself. So I will try an idea used by many others, tightening and loosening the belt, by installing the engine on a movable base, I could see this being hard on the belt, we will see.

Another different idea I dreamed up was installing a small crane on the towing A frame. This simplifies log handling, it rotates 360* and should load anything you can get within 6' of that end of the mill or straight out of the back of my truck. It will also turn logs on the carriage.

The 5 trailer jacks allow you to level and support the mill, the three at the crane end give the crane good support.

I don't know if I am going to post this on the forums yet. I know the first comments I am going to get are "my Wood-Myzer can cut 18' boards and 10,000 board feet per day" thats great if your going into business but it will cost you $30,000 and lots of maintenance keeping up with the blade sharpening etc. This one should come in around $1,800 total and hopefully produce all the wood any woodworker could ever hope to find projects for.

So I think thats enough info to get started, and give viewers an idea of were I am headed with this. We'll try to get out in the heat tomorrow and start cutting metal for the base frame.