Showing posts with label roll-up garage door. Show all posts
Showing posts with label roll-up garage door. Show all posts

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Problem Solved - Doors A Dream

So we went hard at building a counterweight this afternoon, completed it in five hrs. The door now runs like a dream, smooth and steady without any hesitation from the drive.

I started by installing a 12" pulley on the 1" shaft, opposite the drive. I drilled the bottom of the V to accept the weight cable for fixing.

Next I fabbed and welded up an idler pulley assembly to keep the weight snug to the wall and unobtrusive. The idler is a used spare, from my snowblower. In the picture is also a coil of heavier cable than the four in the door, to support the weight, and three cable clips.

Next, the weight, I have 3 press die sets that I salvaged out of a former employers scrap bin. The two smaller ones will hopefully be put two some use one day. The third was always destined to be broken down for the material. Its a beast, the plates are 1 1/2" thick and the weight for both plates comes in at 65 lbs. after removing the guides and greasers.

So I installed the idler pulley with 4 lag bolts. Installed the cable and fixed the weights. To keep them from rattling I put two good raps of heavy gorilla tape on. Tried it out, operated smoothly, no hesitation. Had a good feeling of accomplishment, a door like this, if one was available would go for a good buck. This one cost me less than a hundred bucks in lumber. Granted I used alot of stuff that I picked up on sale over the years and alot of salvaged material that I have given a good home too, also for many years, but the current cost was just the wood.

In the picture below, the door is closed and the weight is at its high point a little less than 4' floor to bottom of weight. Meanwhile the door moved 7'. This of course is because the end pulley is 12" dia. and the door drum is 16". There is some math involved here, which I'll not go into but even if the weight is the same as the weight of the door the door is still heavier on the drive system because of the difference in pulley and drum diameters. I can add or take away weight if I deem necessary in the future, but this is working great.

In this picture the door is wide open, and the weight is at its low point, just touching the floor.

Here are a couple of better quality inside pictures with the new counterweight installed. Notice the hight of the weight on the left side of the door.

Here 3/4 open weight around 1' off the floor.

So thats it. It will get a rubber skirt and second coat of stain on the slat faces tomorrow and its done. Now for the big clean up and organization. After that I was going to rebuild my Startrite saw, but the snow will be flying before the end of the month and I have a lot of work to do around here before that happens. So I'll be busy with firewood, oil changes, the lawn, etc. If anyone is interested in my firewood procedure, there is an earlier post that pretty much covers it.

I wish I had a faster connection, I would upload a short video of the door in operation. It's neat watching that big drum spinning and the door smoothly rising. Sadly, wishing will not do it. lol.

Roll-Up Door (Almost Complete)

So I got the roll-up door almost complete yesterday. There were problems, which I will detail after some pictures

Door assembly complete and closed.

Excuse the quality of the inside pictures, focusing into sunlight is giving me dark interiors. The view from inside.

The door half open.

The view from inside.

And the view from outside with door in the full open position.

And the inside view.

Now for the problems. I adjusted the interior guides by 1/8" so sticking is no longer a problem, all slats have free movement. The motor is a 1/2 hp Asian motor, and underpowered. Initially it was stalling and would not last if I continued. The worm gear is rated to 3/4 hp which I have a number of, but none are reversible. To lighten the door I removed the bottom steal bar, since sticking is not a problem and replaced it with short ready rod with lock washers for cable retainers. This bottom edge will be protected with a rubber rap or skirt for weather protection.

This helped, the motor no longer stalls but it is still laboured and will eventually overheat. So what to do. Market doors use springs and counterweights. I will try something with a counterweight system. Post pictures later if I make any headway today.

Friday, September 29, 2017

Started On The Door Assembly

Didn't do much today, started on the door assembly. It goes together easily but is slow feeding everything on to the steel cables anchored to the bottom steel bar. Felt some tightness developing in the side guides as the door got higher, this will produce sticking. Boards are not perfect some have a little cupping and some a little twist. I suspected this might happen. Fortunately the side guides are screwed on , so when the door is all assembled I will remove the inside guides and remove another 1/8" . Since this is a ventilated door a tight seal is not important. Here are a couple of pictures so far.

The edges all have two coats of stain the faces will get a second coat when finished. So hopefully we can get it running tomorrow.

Making Up 5 Wire Cable

I mentioned yesterday that I made up 5 wire cable to run the motor in forward and reverse, I will elaborate here. Firstly be warned this is probably not approved by local codes. In my opinion this hack is tougher and safer than 5 wire lumex if it was available, I have never seen it in hardware or building stores though I am sure something similar is available through an industrial supplier.

 In the first picture are the materials needed, on the left,# 14/3 lumex, on top 3/4" wire loom (note this cable will be run inside the wall, for surface mounting armored sheathing or conduit is required), and on the right is a coil of heavy sheathed # 14 deep well wire. The color is yellow and will be used as the blue cable in the wiring diagram.

Cut the lengths required.

Do a well spaced wrap of the lumex with the well wire and tape the ends, I like this neat so I do a loose wrap with tape as well.

Add the wire loom, wrap 3 or 4 turns of electrical tape every 12" or so to keep things tight. And thats it 5 wire cable.

Motorized The Roll-Up Door

So its been a long day but we got her done. Didn't start in the shop till after lunch, installed the motor, belt, and pulleys. Ran a circuit from my garage sub-panel. Made up a 5 wire, including ground, cable from the motor to the switch box, Drilled out a salvaged electrical box to accept the switches and installed.

Getting late at this point but decided to wire the motor and switches. The motor went fine the switches seemed fine too till I turned the power on and tried it. The breaker tripped right away. I disconnected the 3 way switch and took it inside to ponder over supper and a couple of cups of coffee. This is the problem with working with salvaged equipment, they don't come with wiring diagrams but with a little bit of knowledge you can usually figure it out. I looked over my diagram and found the problem, I was short circuiting by connecting the motor live and neutral wires to the same side as the forward and reverse wires. Went back out and reconnected the switch.

Turned the power back on after closing up the box. Selected a position on the 3 way switch and hit the deadman switch, away it went, smooth and quiet, belt runs smoothly and true without any pulley wobble. Timed the drum revolutions to 2 in 10 seconds so from closed to fully open will be closer to 9 seconds.

I deleted the wiring diagram posted earlier and replaced it with the revised wiring diagram for those interested. Here are some pictures.

I have yet to touch up the paint on the box and mark the switch positions.

Hopefully get started assembling the door tomorrow, oops thats today actually lol.

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Worm Gear Installed

So I installed the worm gear and a temporary pulley to try it out. Turns smoothly and easily. I may have mentioned it before but a worm gear is self braking in both directions, the door can't move unless the worm gear is being operated. Since it runs smoothly I decided rather than build two systems I would go ahead with the motor drive now, the one hiccup will be if the door sticks or hangs up.

So I ended up spending half the day looking for the right switches through half a dozen boxes of salvaged electrical equipment I have saved over the years. Eventually I found the momentary normally off switch (I believe this is the correct name, I could be wrong). In industry we call it a "deadman" switch, It is spring loaded and operates when you push it in and releases when you let it go. I am an operating power engineer and we used them when blowing sediment out of our boiler water columns, if you released the switch before the water level returned to normal in the water column, the boiler tripped out and left you to deal with all the problems that comes with that, depending on the type of plant you are operating, the most critical being a steam turbine driven generating plant. Thus the name "deadman" switch.

The second switch is a 3 position switch to reverse the motor, forward, off and reverse. this switch is not powered unless the "deadman" switch is held in. So to operate the door you first select forward or reverse (raise or lower) and then operate the deadman switch. when you release the switch the door stops and locks in position because of the worm gear.

I have gone this way to avoid limit switches which would require additional wiring, and they generally require frequent adjustment. The deadman switch requires your attention and nothing is live or operates unless you physically hold it in.

Installed a temporary pulley and belt to operate manually from floor level.

On the left a momentary normally off "deadman" switch and on the right a 3 position switch, both are Allen Bradley switches.

This is the revised wiring diagram for the above switches, if you copied the previous diagram its wrong.

The motor will get a 2" pulley and the worm drive will get a 6" pulley. The worm drive has a ratio of 60:1 and the motor runs at 1725 rpm. If you do the math, for the door to go from closed to fully open will take 10 sec.

Got to catch up on chores I have been neglecting today. I'll try to make up and upload the PM highlights this evening.

Monday, September 25, 2017

Brackets And Roll-Up Drum Installed

Another humid day, Got the brackets and roll-up drum installed anyway. Went together nicely without any hang ups, sweat a bucket of water pulling on the wrenches and the heavier lifts but it is nice to see it come together.

It runs very smoothly, I gave it a spin and it took 2 minutes to stop moving so I could take a picture. I figure I can pass it of as a perpetual motion machine if I hide a squirrel in one of the hollowed out wheels and pay him 5 or 6 peanuts to keep it going. For a whole bag I can get a couple of thousand to run it and power my house, ha ha ha lol. Just lightening things up. Cheers.

Door Guides Finished

Short lunch time post, completed the door guides, stained and did a small lay-up to check fits.

Some may still be wondering, what the heck is this crazy man building. Did a little lay up here to check fit, the rubber spacers are in just missing the cables and hardware. As mentioned before I was not going to originally build the door but after mulling it around in my head I came up with this alternative. It will provide privacy and security, though out here that is not as big a concern, more importantly it will provide protection from wind driven rain and drifting snow and provide good cross ventilation down to floor level. This will allow me to do things like running my melting furnace, or a forge without concern of fume or gas build ups while still protected from the weather.

Stain applied.

Sunday, September 24, 2017

Door Guides

Stupid hot and humid today, guess better late than never for summer. The paint I applied yesterday needs to harden up a little more. Decided to work on the door guides.

First I cut the slot in the door header for the drum to feed the door through. This would have been better done when I was building the header, but I had not considered adding a door then (imagination will get you in trouble every time lol). I used my saws-all with a course metal cutting blade to cut through the ends of the 4" spikes I used to build the header. It cut fast enough but working over your head, it was hard to maintain a straight line. The humidity fogged up my goggles so I couldn't see, so I had to wear my welding helmet and by the time I was finished I was tarred and feathered with sweat and sawdust lol. Spent an hr. tapering back the top edges and cleaning it up. Not bad, could be worse.

Next I cut, tapered and installed the two outside door guides. The opening in the header is 1 1/2" wide. The door is a little under 3/4" thick. With the door closed, the drum will be lined up so the inside edge of the door is close to the inside edge of the opening in the header. With the door fully raised the drum will have a little over 1 1/2 wraps moving the outside edge of the door close to the outside edge of the opening in the header.

The outside side guides are 2" wide and tapered 3/8" for the top 12 ". The inside guide will be the same, so at the top the gap will match the opening in the header and taper to 3/4" a foot below the header. This will keep the door snug and hopefully prevent any hangups in its operation.

So that was it for today, humidity just over the top, decided a cold one and a football game on the tube would be more fun. So I will finish the side guides tomorrow, apply some stain, and start installing some hardware.

Saturday, September 23, 2017

Drum And Brackets Painted

As they say "it always looks better with a fresh coat of paint". Painted the drum and both brackets today. Had a quarter can of tough Armour Coat, oil, gloss black, just enough to get two coats on. Its pretty humid today so it may not be dry enough to work with tomorrow, we'll see. Here's a few more pictures.

Friday, September 22, 2017

Roll-Up Door Brackets

Put a good day in the shop today. Completed the brackets to operate the roll-up door and assembled all the hardware for the installation.

Here I used my portable vises to try out the assembly. Thats a 1/2" pipe in place of the 1" shaft and roll-up drum.

Another view.

Back view. I was originally going to go with 3 lag bolts (like the center bolt), to mount the brackets to the 6 X 6 posts. I was afraid that over time they may loosen and pull out under pressure. I decided to make up some extra long bolts with 5/8" ready rod. The nuts are welded on one end and I made up extra large heavy washers. These will bolt through the complete post and make the bracket mounting as solid as the post itself.

It goes without saying that alignments are going to be far from dead on, on such a large assembly. Fortunately self aligning flange bearings are very forgiving. One alignment that needs to be quite close is the shaft to worm gear coupling, for this I left room on the worm gear shelf to add shims for alignment.

You will notice I did not round off the bottom of the worm drive bracket like the other side. This is so that if this works out and I decide to motorize the drive later I can drill and tap this area for an adjustable motor mount.

So paint and more stain tomorrow and hopefully do the installation and assembly Sunday and Monday.

Thursday, September 21, 2017

Working With 1 X 4 Strapping

For light work that does not require high strength and resistance to abrasion 1 X 4 strapping is inexpensive and easy to work with. However there are a few things different about working with strapping. Firstly much of the strapping available is made from lower quality spruce ( top quality spruce is coveted for construction of such items as musical instruments). Picking strapping for projects usually requires picking through the lift to exclude cracked warped and overly knotted boards.

Second most strapping nowadays is made from resawn 2 X 4's. The sawmill industry gets to utilize there lower grade 2 X 4's by passing them through a resaw and selling them as 1 X 4 strapping. The problem for utilizing them for projects is that it is no longer 3/4" thick because of the resaw kerf and they are not planed on one side which would reduce the thickness even more and increase the cost to produce. The thickness varies between 5/8" and 11/16" (depending on the resaw and tooth set), so for dado work a stack dado is necessary as opposed to standard size tooling like router bits. And unless you want to do some pretty heavy sanding, a jointer or planer is necessary for the rough side.

In the first picture, on the left is a full size 1 X 4 pine and on the right is 1 X 4 strapping.

In this picture the the strapping on the right has the rough resawn side facing up. There are different types of resaws, the one used here was very well adjusted, they are usually rougher than this.

For light work like drawers or in my case shallow molding flasks or my current roll-up door project, they are an inexpensive alternative.

Little update rather than a new post. working on designing and cutting out the bracket assemblies today. The herons are so happy I haven't made them lunch yet (lol), they are coming almost up to the house. They still take off in a hurry when I start up my hand grinders. Here is a nice picture of one who posed for me.

 Just joking about the lunch thing


Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Building A Door Roll-Up Drum

So got the door roll-up drum completed, exceeds my expectations. I wanted it to be very ridged across it's full length and relatively light for it's size. It comes in less than 80 lbs and I can prop both ends up and sit in the middle without any deformation.

Construction starts with a 1" steel shaft, 4 drilled and countersunk flanges are welded to this shaft. to these flanges are screwed 4 laminated plywood 16" diameter circular frames. To these frames are glued and screwed 7 longitudinal 1 X 4's and 1 - 2 X 4. Extra long screws are used on the 2 X 4 and it is drilled to take the top of the door cables.

Here are the laminated 16" plywood frames and the steel flanges.

I am using # 14 X 2 1/2" screws, so I laminated screw backers on as well.

Here the flanges are welded on.

And here the frames are screwed on to the flanges.

Starting to install the longitudinal frame members.

All done, trying it out for size.

Another view.

It will be mounted on 1" standard duty flange bearings and driven through a 1:60 worm gear.

I will operate the worm gear with pulleys and a crank over the winter. If everything holds up well I will motorize it next year. Next the welded mounting brackets.