Building woodworking and metalworking projects in the home shop, including patternmaking, casting and smithing.You'll also find plans and information articles and a sprinkling of woodland property and nature pictures.
Got the door lock completed this morning. This one required a little trial and error and some creativity. I wanted it to serve two purposes, lock the door closed and clamp the door frame to the building frame to seal that side of the door frame against things like wind gusts. The door stop and retainer does this effectively on the other side of the frame. The assembly I came up with does both functions solidly. With the lock applied, it is impossible to open the door, short of breaking the door down and it is tightly clamped to the building frame.
The locking assembly.
The door closed and locked.
Took two attempts to get it right but it's applied and removed quickly, just turn a screw, and very solid.
So I applied a coat of stain on the inside surface and welded up the rolling brackets while it dried. In the first picture is one bracket completed on the left and the parts to make up the second one on the right.
Trying the bracket out for fit.
Brackets installed on door and door hung and in closed position.
In full open position.
The view from outside.
Door stop and plywood retainer installed.
Boy its sure nice to have everything work out the first time, the way you first envisioned it. The door slides smoothly and easily. The plywood retainer snugs the door frame against the building frame in the closed position and all it now requires is a lock and second coat of stain. Cheers.
So I got through a couple of books but the sirens call from the workshop was too enticing. The back entrance to the fresh air workshop is the most vulnerable to snow drifting, since it faces west so I figured I better do it first. I decided to go with a top hung sliding door because it requires little space to operate and will not interfere with vehicle parking or workshop activities while still providing a large 5' entry.
It is a frame and panel construction with resin lattice on top and 5/8" G1S plywood on the bottom. The frame joints are corner half laps and tee half laps. The lattice is inset into 1/4" X 1" grooves and the ply panel into 5/8" X 1" grooves.
The first picture is all the frame members cut lapped and grooved I also applied stain to the lattice section to avoid making a mess of the lattice later.
Here the door is assembled. Spread copious amounts of glue on all the corner and tee joints. Applied the clamps to keep everything tight and square and put 5 drywall screws in each joint. Sometimes I do get lucky ha ha, both diagonals were bang on when I measured for squareness.
First coat of stain applied and drying. Notice the stained rail above the door, it is not level. This is so that when the door is closed the bottom will be adjusted close to the floor but when you open the door it will rise to 1/2" above the floor to avoid hangups.
I considered using welded angle iron for the top rail but decided it would be overkill for a door this size. Instead I chose a clear fir 2 X 4 and ripped it down to 1 1/2" X 2" actual and cut a rebate deep enough to accept a steel flat bar and still have a lip to keep the wheels on track.
I will be using 2, 1" wide powder formed metal casters welded to 2 brackets to hang the door off of. If I get them welded up tomorrow, I'll post a couple of pics.
So I still have at least 3 books I'd like to read "Collapse" by Jared Diamond, "The God Delusion" by Richard Dawkins, and "Grave New World" By Stephen King (not that Stephen King) but I think the only way to resist the workshop is to take that road trip, lol.